“Where can I go now, I, a Trotta?”

Joseph Roth.

When I return to Vienna in March I’ll likely spend an hour or two at the Kaisergruft, the Capuchin Crypt wherein lie the remains of “150 Habsburg personalities,” as the web site has it. It will be my third visit over the years, and wandering the crypt, chilly and low-lit, encourages a certain amount of historical contemplation. Some of this contemplation leads to a comparison of the old Empire with our own world.

It certainly did for Joseph Roth, whose 1938 novella The Emperor’s Tomb (translated by Michael Hofmann and published by New Directions) has just found its way out of my hands and onto my bookshelf. Die Kapuzinergruft, to give the book its original German title, is often characterized as a sequel to Roth’s epic 1932 The Radetzky March — I briefly wrote about that novel here — but is actually more of an epilogue, a completion of the Trotta family chronicle that began with the earlier book. That novel’s timespan reached from the 1859 Battle of Solferino, in which the young Lieutenant Trotta saves the life of the blundering emperor Franz Joseph, to the 1914 Battle of Krasne-Busk, at which Trotta’s grandson is killed.

The Radetzky March poetically and majestically explores the slow descent and dissipation of the Empire through three generations. There’s another Trotta at the Battle of Krasne-Busk, though — a cousin, Franz Ferdinand Trotta, who enlists in the Austro-Hungarian Army after a rather misspent and dissolute youth. His story — fragmented and told, unlike The Radetzky March, in the first person — reaches from 1913 through the 1938 Anschluss, a story of rapid personal, cultural, and political decline. Like the first novel, the second also reaches from Vienna to Galicia and back again, from the skeptical and mildly corrupt but mannered and polite 19th-century Empire through the seemingly progressive and modern but vulgar and cynical 20th-century Europe, from the polyglot multicultural Empire to the nationalistic, ethnocentric, and brazenly antisemitic [Sounds familiar. -Ed.] Central and Eastern Europe of the long war between 1914 and 1945. The same theme informed another film of the period, Jean Renoir’s 1937 Grand Illusion, also set in the First World War and a melancholic elegy for a lost world.

I expect to meet the Trottas’ ghosts during my next visit to the Kaisergruft, as well as other ghosts of that long-defunct Empire, perhaps even a few of my own family’s. In the meantime, I highly recommend The Emperor’s Tomb as well as The Radetzky March, which remain timely reminders of a lost and perhaps more civilized world.


One character who appears in both novels is Count Chojnicki, a minor Galician noble skeptical of European progress. In his brief appearances, he, perhaps speaking for Roth himself, delivers monologues that emphasize the virtues of a world which is rapidly being lost. In The Radetzky March, Chojnicki wittily condemns the nationalism which is leading to the First World War (“Here’s to my countrymen, wherever they happen to hail from!” is his generous and all-embracing toast); in The Emperor’s Tomb he argues with Trotta and his friends the benefits of the Church, which in Vienna means the Catholic Church. (Roth, a Galician Jew, flirted with Catholicism through his life.) He says:

The Church of Rome … is the only brace in this rotten world. The only giver and maintainer of form. By enshrining the traditional element “handed down” in its dogmas, as in an icy palace, it obtains and bestows upon its children the licence to play round about this icy palace, which has spacious grounds, to indulge irresponsibility, even to pardon the forbidden, or to enact it. By instituting sin, it forgives sins. It sees that there is no man without flaw: that is the wonderfully humane thing about it. Its flawless children become saints. By that alone, it concedes the flawed nature of mankind. It concedes sinfulness to such a degree even that it refuses to see beings as human if they are not sinful: they will be sainted or holy. In so doing the Church of Rome shows its most exalted tendency, namely to forgive. There is no nobler tendency than forgiveness. And by the same token, there is none more vulgar than to seek revenge. There is no nobility without generosity, just as there is no vengefulness without vulgarity.

Three years

Today marks the third anniversary of the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine. According to the Council on Foreign Relations, Russia has inflicted over 12,456 Ukrainian civilian deaths and 28,382 injuries since then, while four million Ukrainians  are internally displaced and 6.8 million Ukrainians have fled the country.

Any sovereign nation is entirely within its rights to determine whether or not to join economic or military alliances, such as the European Union or the North American Treaty Organization; this is a matter of international law. Realpolitik will always play its part in these decisions, but the government and citizens of that nation still retain the exclusive right to decide what institutions they decide to ally themselves with.

It could be argued that Joe Biden wavered fatally in his support of Ukraine, but Donald J. Trump is idiot par excellence, willing to cozy up to bloodthirsty autocrats like Putin and sell Ukraine out to the highest bidder. So United States foreign policy, which at one time at least paid lip service to ideals of democracy and national sovereignty, has become greedily transactional, rewarding gross violations not only of international law but simple human decency. And this, it seems, is all right by most of the American electorate, as are attacks on such things as the right of individuals — also sovereign — to determine their own gender identity and assume that the government has their back, or diversity and equity initiatives that still reward meritorious individuals, or the moral obligation to provide assistance to the poor and unfortunate around the world, even if that assistance adds up to only 1% of the US budget. Trump and his minions may happily wallow in and take advantage of the creation of destruction and chaos, but it’s no way to run a country.

I went to church yesterday, where the gospel reading was Luke 6:27-38 — most appropriate, this, and proof itself that these days even going to an Episcopal Church is something of a political protest. It’s Trump, and all those who voted for him (and those who sat the election out, passively granting their consent to his victory), who’s to blame.

I’m sure I know many people who voted for Trump, whether they care to admit it or not. This vaguely nauseates me. I was born — back in the Pleistocene era — at Pennsylvania Hospital, 8th and Chestnut Streets in Philadelphia, just three blocks from Independence Hall, and through my life I’ve admired what this country has stood for, not least Emma Lazarus’s sentiments engraved at the bottom of the Statue of Liberty in 1903. My grandparents when they arrived here saw that plaque, I think (my grandmother worked at Ellis Island as a nurse), though because their English was poor I’m not sure they could read it. In the past few years I’ve enjoyed reading about 18th-century American history, about the founders, and I’ve never had a problem with the idea that progress can be low: two steps forward one step back, and sometimes worse than that. I’m no revolutionary. And of course there was our founding sin (and the sin of those founders), slavery.

But at least then, I could believe that this was still my country. It’s really not my country any more. The beacon of the free world, proud and courageous, is no longer Washington, DC, it seems; it’s Kyiv.

Slava Ukraini. I wrote about my own Ukrainian roots here.

A toast to …

Nibelungenlied Manuscript C, Folio 1r, about 1220-1250. Owned by Landesbank Baden-Württemberg and Bundesrepublik Deutschland. Permanent loan to the Badische Landesbibliothek, Karlsruhe (Codex Donaueschingen 63).

Reflecting the increasingly Austria-centric concentration of this journal, I posted items this week about the late Professor Marjorie Perloff and the holiday offerings of radio klassik Stephansdom.

In addition, I raise my glass today to the Nibelungenlied; as part of my continuing education and immersion in all things German and Central European, I’m reading the Penguin Classics translation by A.T. Hatto, a rather interesting fellow himself. A page of the manuscript, from a 13th century codex, is above. I’m just past the midpoint now, as Kriemhild  stopped at Melk and then proceeded to Vienna for her marriage to Hungary’s King Etzel. As it happens my family and I were in both Melk and Vienna just a few months ago; no sign of Kriemhild, but that was some time ago.

Compared to the much older epics of the Mediterranean Sea — the Iliad and the Odyssey for starters — the Nibelungenlied is far sparer and relatively god- and goddess-free, with more of an emphasis on the internal lives of its characters; apart from Siegfried’s cloak of invisibility, there’s very little supernatural about it. I suppose you could say that, like the climate from which it emerged, it’s much colder than Homer’s poems, but I rather like that; although of course there’s considerably more Christian and chivalrous material, there’s also an awareness that paganism was still an element in social, cultural, and religious life (indeed, a Christian Kriemhild marries a pagan Etzel, a point made by the anonymous Nibelungenlied poet). In addition, both Brunhilde and Kriemhild possess much more agency and are far more energetic than Homer’s female characters — the Nibelungenlied is much sexier and erotic, for want of better words, than the earlier epics. Wagner’s Ring operas have a rather scant resemblance to this poem, relying more on the Volsung Saga, but the Nibelungenlied itself is still quite a wonderful read.

Reading the rest of it is how I’ll be spending much of this weekend.